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speakers: The Squamish Mountain Festival is inviting some of the best known climbers from around the globe to come and visit Squamish, show some slides, tell some stories, drink some beer and climb some routes. Here's a look at this year's guest speakers! Christian Begin
Full Bios below...
CHRISTIAN BEGIN
Saturday, August 15 - Squamish Adventure Centre - 10:30am Christian began his filmmaking career 20 years ago. As a sherpa and keen understudy for director Bill Heath, carrying a 16 mm camera package on a Warren Miller ski shoot in the Kootenay mountains of British Columbia. After learning the craft of shooting film, he was then hired to travel the world as the main cinematographer for two of the most prominent ski and snowboard film companies at the time: Greg Stump and Aventuroscope films. In 1995, he shot and directed Locomotion. It was an overnight success. Finalist at the prestigious Banff Mountain Film Fesitval and feature on the festival world tour, the film was intricate in launching the young filmmaker career. As a result, Powder Magazine wrote a feature article about him and awarded Locomotion the highest score in their ski movie reviews. In addition, Christian was awarded best new ski filmmaker at the Crested Butte International Film festival in Colorado. In 1997, he founded Radical Films . The three Kranked movies that he directed, revolutionized mountain biking and was internationally acclaimed to bring extreme free riding to the world. Many projects later he sold his share of the company to expand his horizon as freelance director and DOP. Since then, Christian has been in high demand working on commercials, feature films , short films ,documentaries, TV shows , corporate and promotional films. Most recently, Christian has been involved in a diverse array of projects: action director /d.o.p for Ski Bums, an NFB feature/documentary film; second unit cinematographer for the Fanstactic 4, feature film ; director/d.o.p of a Parcs Quebec, commercial; director of a Quick Silver theater commercial and cinematographer for an American Express commercial with olympic gold medal snowboarder Sean White. Christian was just nominated for best cinematography in a documentary at the LEO’S AWARD. CART OF DARKNESS also won the best documentary program in it’s category. His playground is now Squamish,BC, where he lives with his partner, daughter and his many toys. PETER CROFT
Wednesday, August 12 - Eagle Eye Theatre - 7pm Start any conversation about the greatest Squamish climbers and no doubt one of the first names to come out of your mouth would be Peter Croft. Ever since Peter arrived in Squamish around the summer of 1976 he has satiated his appetite for adventure by climbing the boldest lines in the most daring style of any climber of his era. Hard free solos, 5.13 on-sights, big wall speed records, and extended mountain range traverses: Peter Croft has done it all, and in the process he's established himself as a visionary in the climbing community. Croft began his career in Squamish, British Colombia, and quickly made a name for him by free-climbing old aid lines that had previously been thought impossible. His efforts yielded such classics as the Zombie Roof (5.12c). He later went a step further by linking three Grade V's on the Grand Wall in 9 hours. In 1982 he set a new benchmark when he freed University wall. Also at Squamish, Croft flashed not one but two 5.13 first ascents - one that went unrepeated for 11 years. In the Bugaboos, Croft had a soloing binge, which linked more routes than most people complete in a week. Starting from the Kain Hut, he on-sight free-soloed the Beckey-Chouinard route on South Howser Spire, the McCarthy route on Snowpatch Spire, the Northeast ridge of Bugaboo Spire, and the McTech Arete (5.11c) on Crescent Spire - all in 14 hours. Inevitably, Croft ended up in Yosemite Valley, where he carved a place for himself in history by making the first free-solo of the sustained and committing Astroman (V5.11c). Previously, he made the first one day link-up of the Nose and the Regular Route on Half Dome with Valley legend John Bachar. This then led to his present neurosis: big traverses and link-ups in the High Sierra. He sometimes writes about his adventures in various climbing magazines and, in between climbs, logs serious couch-time watching TV with his wife, Karine, and his dog Pee Wee. Throughout his climbing career Peter has remained true to his passion of climbing, never one to search out the limelight. Peter is a modest and humble man who has never let the world of sponsorship or notoriety entice him away from the mountains he loves. AUDREY GARIEPY
Friday, August 14 - Eagle Eye Theatre - 7pm Audrey Gariepy started to rock climb in 1999. Becoming so addictive to it, she stopped snowboarding and playing soccer to have all her free time for her new passion. Doing road trips between her University's semesters, she got bored very fast of climbing inside during the long Canadian winters!! In 2002 she decided to combine playing outside in the winter and climbing.....so she started ice climbing. Waking up early to enjoy every minute of the short winter day light, making long approach to get to a beautiful waterfall in a quiet corner of a big mountain, being efficient in all the little details to make the day flow seems to fit perfectly with what she calls another perfect day. Since she finished her Physical Education degree at the Laval University in 2002, she has been working for a Reforestation Company in BC for three months per year. Then, she gets 9 months off to travel around the world and climb as much as possible. Going from 5.13, WI 6 to M10s, she is always ready to try something new. Her positive energy, sense of humour and determination are a very good mix for a fun day out!! Her Highlights are Fun de Chichunne 5.13c in Greece, 1st season ascent of Curtain Call WI6+ 200m in the Canadian Rockies, La Pomme d'Or Direct WI6 380m in Quebec, Mindbender WI6 in Lake Willoughbby and Gold Line M10. Three times winner of the Quebec Ice Cup, finishing 1st, 2nd and 3rd at both the Ouray Ice Fest and the Festiglace du Quebec she enjoys to compete to meet new people and to push the limits. Climbing has brought her all around Europe, Asia and North America. She never know where she's going to spend the Fall, but she won't miss a little trip in the Canadian Rockies every winter to enjoy this little ice/mixte climbing paradise. LAUREN LEE
Friday, August 14 - Eagle Eye Theatre - 7pm Not just another pretty face, Lauren Lee has the skills to back up the hype that surrounds this once mid-westerner turned desert rat. The long-time professional climber has based out of Hurricane, UT since 2003 in which time she has proven herself as one of the strongest women in the country by repeating hard lines and establishing many others. An extensive tick list, reaching up to V10 and 5.14, is only the start of admirable credentials that put Ms. Lee at the top of her game. Lee’s natural competitive drive helps her excel in the competition circuit as well. When mentioning her several 1st place finishes in national competitions or her impressive 2nd place finish in the 2003 Worlds Cup in Rovereto, Italy, Lee comes off more matter of fact than gloating. To Lee succeeding is something you do for yourself and nobody else. Lee’s photo friendly persona has caught attention of many agencies in and out of the climbing community. Featured on covers and pages of media outlets such as Rock and Ice and in several catalogues and calendars like The Women of Climbing Calendar, Lee has dominated climbing’s industry as much as the rock’s scene. Now, after almost a year of dodging the limelight, Lee is recharge to travel, climb, and work with photographers like Keith Ladzinski and Jorge Visser. You’ll find Lee most recently on the cover of the Climbing Magazine’s 2008 January issue and MVM’s February installment. Though Lee isn’t camera shy, she enjoys the simplicity of rancher life filling her rest days with gardening, painting, and biking in the Hurricane Valley desert with her dog Pierre. But don’t let Lee’s cute face and calm exterior fool you, it is easily broken down at the sight of any challenging route. Lee’s unrailed determination comes paired with what she calls a endless endurance for pain and suffering, stating “I’m pretty calm but there are moments where I’m so driven I’ll go to great lengths to get what I’m going for.” INES PAPERT
Friday, August 14 - Eagle Eye Theatre - 7pm Ines is an inspirational athlete and person who, in the last ten years, has been setting new standards for ice/mixed, rock and alpine climbing. In recent years, ice climbing competitions have been her focus, where she worked hard to become a four time Ice Climbing World Champion in difficulty. She has won 3 World Cup Overall Titles, and she completed the first M11 ascent by a women of the infamous route, Mission Impossible. Her rock climbing prowess has led to ascents on some of the hardest routes in the Alps with ascents of Symphonie de Liberte 8a on the Eiger Northface, Last Exit on Titlis 8a+/b and Pellisier 8b on Grande Cima de Lavaredo. Ines became a mom in 2000 giving birth to her son Emanuel. Her and Emanuel are often seen spotting one another in European and American climbing areas (her favorite being Indian Creek, Utah, USA) With the Ines limited left over time, she loves to cook, then enjoy her creations with her favourite Rioja (Spanish Red Wine) and good friends. IAN PARNELL
Saturday, August 15 - Squamish Adventure Centre - 10:30am Alpinism is about heart and minds not big muscles" says the 35 years old Brit "I may not be the best technical climber around but when it gets gnarly I can put my head down and keep pushing". This determination has seen Ian through to a string of alpine successes most recently on the first ascent of the South West Ridge of Annapurna III (7555m) in Nepal, an ascent nominated for the coveted international award the Piolet D'Or (Golden Ice Axe). Ian chose the harsh and lonely winter season to visit Patagonia, a region with weather that strikes fear in most alpinists even in summer, coming away with the first winter ascent of Vol de Nuit on Mermoz. On the rock Ian has managed numerous first ascents of big wall free climbs, in particular The Thumbnail in Greenland, which at 4450ft is one of the world's largest free climbs. But it's in Alaska's Central Range that Ian has had greatest success with new routes on Denali and Mount Hunter together with the coveted second ascent of the Denali Diamond. When not in the mountains Ian likes to wind down with ground up first ascents on the UK's numerous sea cliffs. A firm believer in the light is right approach Ian is looking forward to further alpine style attempts in the Himalayas. WILL STANHOPE
Wednesday, August 12 - Eagle Eye Theatre - 7pm Will was raised in North Vancouver, a 15 minute bike ride from the Edge Climbing Center. He spent most of his teenage years in that gym: breathing in chalk dust and dangling on plastic holds. Under the tutelage of Andrew Wilson and Mike Doyle, he trained for climbing competitions and eventually started getting into trouble an hour north up the highway- in Squamish. In 2008, he freed Cannibis Wall, a popular A3 on The Chief in Squamish, British Columbia, with Jason Kruk following. The pair spent nearly a week cleaning the line before Stanhope freed its committing five pitches (5.12 R, 5.13- R, 5.12, 5.13-, 5.12-) on lead. He is 21 now and spends his summers in Squamish, tinkering on old aid lines and mangling his fingers in cracks. He generally spends the rest of the year on the road. In the past year he has climbed in Patagonia, Indian Creek, Yosemite, the Bugaboos and the Rockies. Will is most inspired by beautiful lines - the bigger the better. He also like sunrises, strong coffee at 3 AM, dry granite and campfires. SIMON YATES
Born in 1963, Simon grew up in the village of Croft in Leicestershire and spent his youth grubbing around on the tiny local outcrops, loose quarries and railway viaducts until escaping to college in Sheffield at 18 to study Biochemistry. However, four years earlier at the age of 14, Simon had already been hooked on climbing after a school trip to Coniston in the Lake District and ultimately he abandoned a conventional lifestyle to pursue his mountaineering ambitions. 25 years later, Simon is one of the most famous and accomplished exploratory mountaineers of his time. After the harrowing events of his and Joe Simpson’s first ascent of the West Face of Siula Grande in the Peruvian Andes in 1985 during which Simon was forced to take the decision to cut Joe’s rope after he had fallen in a crevasse (as recounted in the bestselling book and BAFTA award-winning film ‘Touching the Void’) Simon carried on to climb in some of the most remote and rarely explored mountain ranges of the world. He has made eleven visits to the Pakistani Karakoram, climbing numerous peaks including first ascents of Leyla Peak (6300m) and Nemeka (6400m) in Hushe. He succeeded with a team making the first British ascents of Khan Tengri (6995m) in Kazakhstan and for a time concentrated on big wall climbing in Patagonia and Baffin Island – his most notable achievement a new route on the Central Tower of Paine in Chile. Simon has made four sailing and mountaineering trips to Chilean Tierra del Fuego resulting in the first ascents of Monte Ada (2100m) and Monte Iorana (2300m). In September 2004 Simon returned to Pakistan and made the first ascent of the South West Face of Hispar Sar (6400m), and in May 2005 climbed a new route on the West Face of Mount Alverstone (4439m) the remote Wrangell-St Elias range of mountains on the Alaskan–Yukon border. As well as his mountaineering achievements, Simon also runs an expedition company and is a successful speaker and writer. His first book 'Against the Wall' was runner up in The Boardman Tasker Award for mountain literature in 1997 and his second book ‘The Flame of Adventure’ was short-listed for a prize in the prestigious Banff Mountain Book Festival in 2001. Simon currently lives near Penrith in the Lake District and is married with 2 young children.
Others who have presented at the festival include: Ron Kauk, Ines Papert, Josune Bereziartu, Conny Ameluxen, Will Gadd, Kevin McLane, Peter Croft, Majka Burhardt, Ed Cooper, Micah Dash, Matt Maddaloni, Dave MacLeod, Sonnie Trotter and Cedar Wright.
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